I grew up in a family that basically did zero outdoor activities. When I was a little boy, my Dad took me to a lake and we rented a rowboat; that was about it. As a teenage boy, I went on a canoe trip down the Peconic River on Long Island, NY. That was the seminal voyage. From then, I did a few other canoe trips and messed around in whitewater kayaks. Going for a short adventure in a boat, under my own power, was something I innately loved. After college, I moved to the San Frwncisco Bay Area, and I told myself I would learn sea kayaking. I wanted to see a seal in its environment, as an aquatic mammal myself.

Where the wild things are

I thought it would be magical to see animals in the water, and the West Coast seemed like the right place to be. It did not take long before my wish to see a seal was fulfilled. It turns out, SF Bay is full of them! That is an awesome thing! Seals are curious creatures that will pop out their head like a periscope to check you out. If you have ever seen one up close, they have beautiful spotted fur. Seeing marine mammals is an indication the water is healthy, on top of being a pleasant treat.

In the early 2010’s, harbor porpoises started to come back to San Francisco Bay. They had been gone for 60 years because of anti-submarine activity during WW2, and high water pollution. I have been lucky to see these gentle creatures on the water several times near Sausalito, CA. They are small relatives of dolphins that grow to be about 5 feet long. In the image above, there is a porpoise on the right. They usually travel in small pods of 3-5, and can be spotted by their dorsal fin or their quiet breathing. If you are lucky, they will hunt for food around your kayak, while you sit back and enjoy the show. I feel extremely lucky to have cetaceans in my home waters.

My best wildlife sighting, and the highlight of my 27 years of paddling, was seeing gray whales off the coast of Pacific Grove, near Monterey, CA. For a decade, my friend and I tried to see them and failed. Even without seeing whales, Monterey is a beautiful paddling destination on California’s Central Coast. There are plenty of sea lions, sea otters, and sea birds to liven up any trip on the water. Gray whales are tough to spot due to their relatively small spouts. Coupled with the low speed of kayaks, it means you pretty much have to run into them out of sheer luck. It was March, and we had positioned ourselves a mile or two out in the ocean, hoping to be in the path of whales returning from Mexico. They whales were almost upon us before we realized they were there. It was two adolescent grays! I’m pretty sure I was shouting with glee. I was lucky to get a few good photos before they disappeared under relatively calm waters that day. It is one of those thrills that will never lose its luster for as long as I live.

The perspective from the water

In a paddle craft, you have the perspective of a bird on the water. You feel the waves and ripples beneath you, the breeze on your face, and the tug of water on your paddle. Salt water, seaweed, and decades of accumulated guano titillate the olfactory nerves. It’s as if you hiked out on the water because you wanted to see how everything looked from there. Paddling under an icon like the Golden Gate Bridge is breathtaking. In the moment, you are watching the water for other boats, rocks, breaking waves, and swift currents, at the same time taking in all the beauty around you. It is what it feels to be truly alive.

Want to get away?

I am amazed by how few people are on the water. In a metropolis of nearly 8 million people, 99.999% of them disappear when you get on the water. Given the title of this blog, you know that is priceless to me. Oftentimes, my friend and I see no one else on the water. If you value peace and quiet minus all the ruckus caused by people, then paddling is for you. We can paddle up to a beach that is only accessible by water, and have it all to ourselves for lunch on a sunny morning. Below is our view of San Francisco from Angel Island. You can’t beat it.

Other great things about kayaking

• It’s great exercise
• After an initial investment in gear, it cost nothing, other than gas, and replacing worn out garments
• A kayak gets you on the water without needing a trailer, or large storage space.
• You can go kayaking relatively close to home, provided you live near water

Conclusion

Sea Kayaking is a wonderful activity. It’s one of the best things I’ve ever done. I’ve had so many amazing experiences on the water. However, it’s not all fun and games; the water should always be respected as a potentially hostile environment. In later posts, I will get into gear and skills that are necessary for enjoying the water with a margin of safety.